Sunday, June 14, 2009

"Talk to me like I'm 5..."

... that's one of my favorite Michael Scott lines from The Office this season. And it's exactly what I need right now.

The June issue of Burda has some really cute styles in it, again. But, after my last (and first) excursion with them, I was kind of put off after being well and thoroughly confused about their sizing system.

I did what I always do and just made the largest size the pattern came in and did my fixes from there. But, I was having to fix patterns to a point that they no longer had the lines of the original style. Some of my favorite Blogistas seem to pump out Burda styles one after the other... I am CLEARLY missing something.

Long story short, can anyone plainly and simply (...remember, I'm 5...) explain to me how to read the Burda size chart.

Much appreciated.



Gail said...

Hey there. The best way of fitting with BWOF is to use your bust measurement for a jacket or top or hip measure for a skirt, then adjust the waist if you need to. If like me you are top heavy use your bust measure then trace down to the smaller hip measure for a dress. Personally, I love the precision of BWOF patterns. They always fit together properly in a way that the big four do not.

Gail said...

Me again. It is probably self evident but you also have to add a seam allowance to BWOF patterns.

wendy said...

I always make a 36 in BWOF - picked by my waist/bust measurements. My bust is just under 34 inches and my waist is 26 inches, which matches the third row of the measurement chart.
US Size 10 (indeed, I make a 10 in Vogue), BWOF size 36, Bust size 33 inches (next one up is 34.75 which is a bit loose on me), waist size 26 inches, hips 35.5 inches (mine are more like 36.5 so I occasionally make a 38 on the bottom).
Note that I have an "A" cup and BWOF is drafted for a B or C cup. If you're larger, you'll need to do a Full Bust adjustment. Pick the size you'd make from your waist size, and then do the FBA adjustment to the pattern.

hope that helps out :-)

lakaribane said...

How can I resist such a topic? But you asked for it.

First, I have to say that I have the opposite problem from you and, to put it simply, it's a question of habit/custom.

I don't understand why my body measurements say I'm a 12 in the Big 4 and yet I have to use a 10. If it's high bust, why not just type HIGH BUST on the chart????

Your problem, on the other hand, seems to be that you are so used to the Big 4, you expected to see a chart with 6-8-10-12-14 etc.

Scratch that, forget it.

You are working with Europeans now, and Germans, no less. Precision is everything.

Use your actual body measurements. Now, I'm not a FBA candidate, so no idea how that works out in Burda but I have always used my actual body measurements and selected my size this way.

I'm the 3rd member of my family to use Burda and my oldest issue is from 1981. Take my word for it: Burda's size chart has NOT changed in all these years. Ok, maybe one single measurement but still...

The regular sizes, for 1m68/5'6" goes from 34 to 42, IIRC. So, measure your full bust, your waist and your hips and find them on the chart.

Burda suggest circling them. This is a good idea if, as Gail said above, you fall btw 2 or more sizes.

If you are in between, you can either trace at midpoing btw, say, 38 and 40 or just trace 40 and take it in when you try it on.

Now, Burda has two special sizes.

One is for SHORT people, called Petite, like me (5') of 1m60/5'3" or less. It is numbered 17 to 20.

The other is for PLUS SIZES of 1m68/5'6" and is numbered 44 to 52, IIRC.

The only difference btw the special sizes and the regular is the LENGTH in the torso and hip. Usually 1 cm or 2. The circular/horizontal measurements are the same. Go look.

There used to be Petite special issues, they stopped. Now there is only the PLUS SIZE special issue, twice a year.

Ok, got that?

I'm a size 38 in burda regular. I modify it to shorten the chest, bust, back and hip length as per their instructions (see website workshops). I also wear 19 aka shorter 38. This one I use as is since it's already shortened.

If you need more help, I'm here. You can also join the forums on the burda website OR join the yahoogroup Burda English. A lot of help is available out there. And there's a pinned thread on Pattern Review's Patterns board full of tips and tricks.

The cut and fit on Burda is so good, I'm shocked when I make wadder (not often). Be warned, though, that the necklines are usually plunging. So were the armholes but I haven't had that problem in years. They must have fixed it.

Let us know how it works out.

JC said...

Well, you've helped me out so that when my skills get to the point where I can manage a BWOF pattern, then at least I'll have this discussion as a point of reference. I enjoy their website and many of the tutorials.

BTW: How's the quilting class coming along?

MsMica...Sewnista in the making said...

Hey JC... the quilting class is great thanks! I'm going to try and sew up the top this weekend.

Hi lakaribane... yyyeeeaahhh... I think I'm going to need you to revert to baby-talk...

Anonymous said...

I just wanted to add: if you´re bigger than a c cup, Burda suggests choosing one size smaller and doing an FBA. This is also what I do- and it works.
Have fun!